The resonator is designed to smooth airflow and counteract excessive intake noise or whine. Installation of aftermarket intake systems makes this part superfluous.

Tools used and parts removed	What it looks like without the box
Rear bolt hole	Front bolt hole

General Info

• The resonator is designed to smooth airflow and counteract excessive intake noise or whine. Installation of aftermarket intake systems such as the K&N AirCharger or JWT Popcharger (for example) make this part superfluous. If you remove it, you may see performance changes or increased noise intake. Removing this resonator, along with a few other pieces no longer needed simplify your engine compartment.
• The factory intake assembly uses a short curved tube with the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor to get air into the filter box. The resonator hangs off the air filter box (before the filter element) and is hidden in the front fender. Removing this box creates an additional way for air to enter the filter box and bypass the IAT sensor. This may or may not be a good thing...
• I really couldn't tell any difference. I'll have to run the scanner on it to verify the IAT sensor is seeing correct temperatures and if the maximum airflow changed any (highest MAF reading).

Removal Instructions

• The wheel well cover attaches with push-in plastic rivets on the inside, and phillips screws on the trim/outside. Use a small flathead to pry out the center plastic pin (pry from multiple sides, and you don't have to fully remove it either) and the entire fastener will come out easily.
• Pull the inside part of the cover down first, then you can wrestle the outer part away from the fender and drop it. You probably won't need to remove it totally, just lay it on the tire to get enough clearance.
• The front attachment is easier to get to than the rear, by far, but it's still relatively easy to drop sockets into nowhere land. (use a magnet tied to a string or stick to retrieve them.) Use a deep-well socket (10mm) or a short socket but don't fully seat it on the wrench, since the center bolt is too long.
• The rear attachment bolt is tough to get at, but if you use a small 10mm box end wrench, you should be able to loosen the nut enough to unscrew it with your fingers. Once you loosen the nut, wiggle the box to help break everything free some more.
• You'll have to twist/turn the box to get it out from the wheel well if you left the tire on, but it's not hard.
• Notice that the factory intake tube is turned towards the back of the car. This leads me to believe it really does get most of it's air from in front of the windshield. Yet another reason to perform the Fresh Air Mod perhaps.

Tools Needed

Not many, it's relatively easy:

• Small flathead screwdriver to pry the center pins out of the plastic rivets.
• Small phillips, or a phillpis with a right-angle adapter for the trim
  attachments.
• 10mm socket and wrench (small size) for the front bolt and a 10mm box-end
  wrench for the bolt under the ABS module.
• Maybe pliers, to help grab the rivets and pull them out.

NOTE: For the rear bolt hole, you can't really see it (even with the naked eye you'll only get a glimpse of it!). It's under the wiring harness, under the ABS Module bracket. Slip a box-end wrench over the bolt from the firewall side and turn it an 1/8th turn a few times, then shake the box as you unscrew it with your fingers from there.

Finishing Up

Take your time, and you'll get it out without breaking anything. You might need the box again someday, or if you start to encounter weird problems... Also, although this probably won't change the chances of getting water in the intake too much (after all the factory intake is less than 2 inches from the new opening!) you should always be careful when going through water higher than the bottom of the frame.