How to install a remote start and alarm system in your Xterra. Anonymously submitted for obvious security reasons...

Default Factory Setup

• SMART Keyless entry and security system with double-pulse unlock and panic. Factory system monitors all doors and hood, sounds horn, disables starter, and flashes high beams upon trigger. Uses horn for arm/disarm chirps, flashes parking lights, and remote can set silent arm/disarm. Uses standard keys, no transponder. Factory system is armed and disarmed by manual door unlock using a key or remote.
• Factory security options include wheel locks by McGuard and tamper-proof airbag security screws for most airbag components.
• SMART module is in easy access location above accelerator pedal. Unit can be identified by FCC labeling.
• From dealership, wheel lock key is normally attached to tire iron under rear carpet. User must register locks and pay for extra keys. No locks on any storage compartments, hood latch is easily accessed from underneath.
• Simple plastic steering column cover, ignition switch is easy to jumper or break, shift lockout is accomplished by cable connecting switch to shifter on automatics.

Overall, this vehicle is relatively easy to steal and overriding the factory security is accomplished by disabling the easily accessed module. Some security is provided by factory wheel locks and airbag tamper-resistant torx style bolts, however these are not overly complicated to bypass, as security torx sockets are readily available. Most desirable parts would likely be airbag components, including seatbelt pre-tensioners, wheels, 6 disc CD changer, and if installed, factory Rockford stereo equipment (standard on SE).

Recommendations

• Aftermarket alarm system with passive arming, shock sensor, battery backup. If factory system cannot be used, an additional starter interrupt should be installed. LED should be highly visible.
• Hood Lock.
• Spare Tire Lock.
• High strength wheel locks if not already installed. Should be registered with manufacturer also.
• Air bag security bolts if not already installed.
• Window Etching if not provided by dealer.
• Receiver locks for vehicles with hitches.
• Use of concealing devices, such as the rear cargo area cover, to keep stereo components and items left in car out of sight.
• Minimal use of manufacturer decals to prevent attracting attention.

Read This, and Understand!

This document is intended to be an overall security assessment of the Xterra, with specific information on installing a remote start alarm system. The installation was based on a 2002 Nissan Xterra SE and a DEI Viper 550 ESP security system. While the wiring info presented here was verified for this vehicle, you are responsible for verifying you have the appropriate connections in your installation as well. Manufacturers are free to make changes at any time, and Xterra's already had a few changes in it's short lifetime.

Please note that the person writing this is not considered an expert installer in automotive electronics, and holds no certifications in that area. I will not list step by step installation instructions because they are system specific. Use your installation manual recommendations for installing, programming and testing. Get an updated one from your manufacturer's website!

Always test with parking brake set, and ample room in front and behind you, i.e. get the hell out of the garage!

ALL remote start systems should be tested for at least the following items:

• Place vehicle in drive, but key is not in ignition position, or removed from car. Hood must be closed. Hold your foot above the brake, but don't press it. Attempt remote start. Remote start system may power up the car when triggered BUT SHOULD NOT CRANK!
• If system supports a take-over function (even if it doesn't) test this - start the car, place in park. Attempt to remote start. Ideally starter SHOULD NOT engage or grind.
• Remote start the vehicle while in park. Open the hood. System MUST DISENGAGE.
• Open hood and attempt remote start in park. System MUST NOT START.
• Remote start the vehicle while in park. Press the brake. System MUST DISENGAGE.
• If over-rev protection is built in to your system, you might want to test it in park. Most systems will abort once you get over 3000 RPM. You shouldn't need to floor it. Some systems are not designed to prevent starter grinding. To do so usually requires cutting the starter wire, and the Xterra has two (unfortunately). Some systems are capable of detecting the engine running and not grinding the starter, but only if the tach wire is connected. What your systems capabilities and hazards are depends on how it was built, and how you installed it.

In particular, I would warn anyone with a standard transmission to never install a remote start system. My experience has shown that few if any cars with standard transmissions can be reliably started remotely without danger of them running away. Realize that while you may always remember to set the parking brake, or leave the vehicle out of gear, your child, spouse, relative, valet attendant, or mechanic may not. The thought of a two-ton vehicle driving (the SC model with an automatic revs up over 2000 RPM at startup when cold!) through your home is not pleasant, but a very real possibility if you perform your installation incorrectly. Even if you install everything correctly, the only difference between a well behaved vehicle warming up in the morning by itself and a runaway car is the position of the shifter. It is your responsibility if things go wrong.

Preparing for an Alarm Installation

I do a lot of prep work before the actual installation. I am a bit of a perfectionist. I will normally take several days to do an installation if I can. The goal for me is to have the system hidden or disguised as factory equipment as much as possible. I chose a DEI Viper 550 ESP alarm off the Internet for my vehicle. It has lots of features that make it ideal for the Xterra, including the ability to disarm and rearm the factory system. That means I don't have to install a starter-kill since I can re-use the factory one. In this case, that's good, because Xterras have two starter wires, and the extra relay can be used to address that design.

Here Are Some Preliminaries:

• Read the owners Manual and Installation guide. A lot of alarm companies (DEI is a parent for several different companies, like Viper, Python, and Clifford) have a website allowing you to download the latest installation and owners guides. When reading the manuals, pay close attention to the features available and their requirements. For example, a remote start system may offer over-rev protection, but to enable that you must attach to the vehicle's tachometer wire.
• Based on what you want the alarm to do, mark up a copy of the wiring guide and note things like what wires you won't be using. Sometimes, depending on the complexity of the install (and remote start + alarm is fairly complex) I'll go so far as to number the wires and put numbers on a drawing of the car (just an overhead view outline) of where the wires will attach to the car. This can help you figure out how much extra wire you will need, and where the best place for the brain is based on where all the wires are going. If the connector to the alarm brain is easy enough to work with, I actually remove the wire and pin from the harness connector for unneeded wires. Save them in case you need them in the future - or god forbid - buy a Geo and want to transfer the alarm.
• For goodness sake, roll down a window so you don't lock yourself out of the car. Don't run your engine in an enclosed area. Keep everyone out of the Xterra until you've tested the safety features.
• Pull the dash panels or glove box, maybe even the center console out to get an idea where the best install site is. For just a remote start system, make it easy and just place it near the steering column. If it's an alarm also, hide the brain somewhere moderately secure. Remember, brains typically have relays inside, and a thief will hear it even with a siren going. Put the brain under a panel that isn't easy to remove.
• For some alarms, the main power relays are in a separate module. You can put the remote start relays close to the steering column and still hide the brain high in the dash to protect it. Take advantage of a multi-module design if that's what you have. Once you know where you CAN put the brain, consider things like switches and buttons and the LED and antenna. Sometimes the harness is short for these, and you either must extend the wiring, or find a better spot to mount the brain.
• Make sure you've got the equipment. You will need:
• Computer safe test light or meter. If connecting to a tach, use a digital meter with AC and DC voltage capability. I went a bit further and drug out the scope to verify I had the right tach wire.
• Good electrical tape. 3M Super 33+ is a good example. Flexible over a wide temperature range, decent adhesive that wont dry out.
• Connections - I prefer solder and tape. Especially for high current connections. You can heat shrink, but normally that requires cutting the vehicle wire, and you don't need to do this with tape. I strip the vehicle wire, split it apart, thread in my wire, then solder, then tape well. That way the factory wire remains intact. Resistors or Diodes will probably be more secure if you fold the component back on the wire then tape it. That way the pulling stress is somewhat negated against the body of the resistor:
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• A stepped (Klein UniBit for example) drill bit makes life much easier. I prefer the long narrow version, use it to drill LED and switch holes. I would never use it for metal, unless you don't want to use it for plastic again.
• Strippers and crimpers. Klein is my choice again, but you can use what you like of course. The multipurpose tools tend to bend and don't line up well under pressure. Having the stripper blade in front of the hinge will be very helpful since getting a stripper over the wire is tough in tight spaces.
• A good iron, wet sponge, holder, and solder. If you're lucky, you can get a Weller electronic iron station for less than $100 that will work. Butane irons work too. 100 Watts is usually sufficient... I like electronic because they usually pour on the power when you need it, and warm up quick. Clean the iron after every joint. Flux will eat the tip away quickly. If you have sal ammoniac lying around, this helps clean the iron too (only once every hour or so. It's something a stained glass hobbyist would have).
• Wire! You're really lucky if you have enough with the new unit. Multi-strand, multicolor, gauge varies by what you are running. Don't go smaller than what the manufacturer uses!
• Crimps. Got to have them to wire up extra relays and such. I prefer the semi-transparent nylon 3M, not the cheaper PVC ones. If you use them instead of solder, you're going to use lots of blue, some yellow for larger wires, and occasionally red for single wire connections.
• Self tapping screws. A drill to drill them in. For tight spaces, a right angle attachment for the drill (skewdriver for example). Phillips bits and a #10 metric socket at least. Razor knife (long and thin), towels, silicone sealant for firewall wire sealing, split loom tubing, etc...

Xterra Details

Siren. The siren can go on drivers or passenger side fender under the hood. I prefer behind the cruise control on passenger side. Aim the horn down somewhat to allow water to drain. Try not to block any brackets or bolt access. For extra security, wrap a piece of radio back-strap around the top of the siren and secure it with the siren mounting screws, so it is not easy to grab the siren and rip it off with your hand. Also, under the rear of the truck, you can hide one above the spare. Point it backwards, and buy a water resistant version unless you live in the desert. You can change out sirens if you like different sounds or want to confuse a thief trying to guess the model... but sometimes it doesn't matter. Vipers have distinctive warn-away chirps for example.
Remote start warning sticker. I would think the plastic fan shroud top ledge would work best. The only flat metal areas I liked were touched by the hood rubber, and I didn't want anything to rub off.
Antenna. The Viper XHF antenna is thin, but long. DEI says to put it over the rear view mirror pointing down. I don't like that because it's ugly, and it lets anyone know what alarm manufacturer you have. I am hiding mine in the center, under the dash, over the middle top air vents. There is no metal nearby, but it is horizontal, so range may suffer somewhat. My alarm didn't have enough wire to reach to a back fixed window, but that would be a great location too.
LED. Consider that it's the first thing a thief looks for. The factory LED is low on the driver's side, and may not be seen from all sides of the car. Since I have the middle hole open on my Xterra, I drilled through the cover plate and installed it next to the power jack. Use hot melt glue to secure it from the back, and drill slowly with light pressure to keep from cracking the plastic. Leave enough slack to be able to pull the panel free in the future. If you're paranoid, buy a raw LED and 470 Ohm resistor and use it instead (or an appropriate value.. Assuming 13V, 325 Ohms is around 40mA, 470 Ohms is around 28mA). No-one will know what alarm it is just by looking. You can go another color, but most thieves are expecting red. If you get a clear super-bright LED, you can rough it up with steel wool to make sure it's very visible from all sides.
Toggle and/or button. Glove box is a possible location for 2002's. There is 1/2 inch space on the left side of mine, I can place both in the support (fixed) left side panel and still close it. It is possible that something in the glove box will hit it however. The center console has a small area next to the power outlet in the larger storage box. There isn't much more than an inch clearance under it however (another power outlet is below, and the spring for the door on the passenger side, plus the cup holder slides in and out below that). You will most likely have to remove the two screws on the bottom sides, near the back, in order to lift the console from the rear enough to push the wires forward.
Driver dash. Pay close attention to the column height mechanism, and note that most of the metal brackets have sharp edges. Protect your wiring. Main remote start wires and parking lights are available on the column. The SMART entry module bracket is attached with one bolt, and next to that bolt is a nice protected area for relays. Stay clear of the airbag wiring!

How to Remove Panels

Use caution. Try not to tear any fuzzy tape strips, and if it seems too tight, it might still have a screw attached somewhere. Don't pry with screwdrivers!

• Center console - The area around the shifter (automatic) has no screws attaching it. You can usually pull it up, sometimes a light pressure outward on the edge helps you get it up the first time. Or try pulling up on a front corner first. I would not use a screwdriver - the risk is too great for scarring. Once it pops up, pull the shifter back to drive, turn the plastic piece 90 degrees and lift up over the shifter. It snaps back down with a little pressure.
• Center console - Around the radio. Two screws over the radio and two more under the shifter area cover. Pull back the panel from the bottom or top. You have access to the radio, a/c controls, and that's the radio amp in front of the shifter. There is a small area under the a/c unit to hide a brain. You will have to remove the radio to get it in, but there's a big metal brace tube right there to secure the brain. You can probably get a main ground off that brace too. Be sure you protect the bottom of the a/c unit or wires will catch on the linkages. You may also have room in front of the shifter on automatics, but stay clear of the shift lock cable. To reinstall the panel, make sure the pegs are in the holes on the bottom, and the clips go into their sockets on the top.
• Center console, rear - Two screws on the rear sides, two in the center just behind the shifter, underneath the shifter area cover. It's probably not too hard to take it out totally, but I just needed to lift it some to push wires through so I didn't go further.
• Glove box - Just like like you're getting to the air filters. Same steps. Stay clear of any wiring harness with yellow tape! (airbag!)
• Drivers kick panel - One screw, one plastic fastener. Removing the door threshold makes it easier to pull off. The door threshold uses small plastic Phillips screws. Use a hand screwdriver to keep from stripping them.
• Passenger kick panel - One screw, one plastic fastener. Removing the door threshold makes it easier to pull off.
• Door weather-stripping - Press fit to install, just pull it to remove. Take care reinstalling to make sure you don't get bulges. Try not to stretch it when re-installing.
• Drivers lower dash panel - Removing this is almost a requirement for a good install. Two screws at the bottom, and clips at the top. The right side will be tough to pull out, wiggle and use patience. To unsnap the panel switch connections, you might have to use a screwdriver to press the buttons on the connectors in enough to release them. On the right side, behind the bracket, is a 10 mm screw/bolt that holds the SMART Entry/Security unit bracket. Undo this and un-hitch it to drop the security module down for access.
• A Pillars (with tweeters) - Remove weather-stripping, use small flat screwdriver to pop open bolt covers on oh-shit handles. Unbolt (#10 metric if I remember) and pull from the top to pop it off. Don't use a screwdriver to pry on it. On the drivers side the rear wiper water line runs along the windshield. Putting it back on takes a bit of finesse... but move it into place and look behind it with a flashlight to make sure you are lined up. It presses back in place, just like the weather stripping.
• Seats - 4 bolts. 1 seatbelt connector. Don't step on the carpet underneath or you might crush the connector blocks. That black plastic flat opening is probably your rear seat foot defroster openings. (They don't work very well! But they will cause excessive heat if you mount electronics down there. Beware.) My owners manual says the airbag module is under the passenger seat but it must not be up to date, because it wasn't there.
• Steering column - Lots of room inside this housing, but part of it looks like it's reserved for the column collapsible area in case of a wreck. You can put a relay in the extra pocket area on the right side, and get access to all start functions, plus the parking lights in this area. Two inner screws attach the bottom plastic to the column, the other screws attach the top piece to the bottom. The seal around the key switch will come loose during removal but it just pushes back on. Note that the plastic piece rests against the column near the bottom rear area, leave this area clear.
  
  Also - very important - the factory wires have a thick plastic shield to protect the wires from chafing around the column height adjustment mechanism. Leave it intact. And don't touch those wires with yellow tape - they are strictly for airbag items!
  

Xterra Wiring Guide

Here's what I found in a 2002 SE:

Center console: On the 2002, the starter interlock system is wired a bit differently, and ground at Neutral/Park is only available when the brake is depressed. One nifty idea might be to re-use the Overdrive switch as a valet switch. I didn't check the polarity, but Viper 550 alarm can use any switched 12V source as a valet switch. The wiring for the O/D switch is the bottom two white wires at the rear of the shifter. Contrary to what some guides say, I could not find a "Yellow" wire in that location for neutral safety. The hazard light switch is located here, allowing access to turn lamps if you need them. Do not use the column shift light wire to back-drive interior lights. I would also stay away from using the power tap as an alarm power source. While you are here, maybe you could do some of those Coolerman light mods - give your drink holders a light or maybe the center storage area. The PCM is behind the center console, at the firewall on the floor. I grabbed a tach wire here. I used a scope to verify it, which was very helpful because I noticed it's a low voltage (5 volt) digital signal from the PCM to the Tachometer, and the Viper alarm should be put into a higher sensitivity mode for non-12-Volt tach signals. The plastic wire cover is hard to remove.

Steering column: The main start power wire, starter wires (two!), ignition (two!), and accessory. If you grab the wires at the switch, not after the connector, some colors will change. Follow the wires to verify (use a test light also!). Park is a Red/Blue wire on top of the column. I prefer to use an additional relay (my starter kill relay in this case) to switch power to the second starter wire (black/green stripe), rather than running both wires from the one alarm starter power wire. Ground one side of the relay coil, get power (center pin) from the main white/red power line, run the relay common pin to the second starter, and run the other relay coil to the first starter wire. This, in effect, means the switch and relay are both providing power to the second starter wire any time the vehicle is starting. I prefer this method instead of relying on the one alarm system relay to power both lines, as the current draw is unknown to me. (Yes, you can measure current, but this way has no negative side effects and it's safe.) Try to stay at least one inch away from the switch if soldering (you ARE soldering these connections, right!?!?) since those wires are also soldered to the switch. If at all possible, use a heavy plastic around the harness before final taping, or re-use the factory one. This protects these wires from chafing. Route all wires down the right side, away from the tilt mechanism. Tie-wrap them to the shift interlock cable if possible.

Drivers dash area: Most of the connections are made here. For the Viper 550 system, there's a nice place for the 4 remote start relays behind the lower dash panel bracket, just right of the steering column. You can also run the alarm harness just behind the panel so it's harder to reach from the back. The SMART security module will provide you with triggers for the hood, doors, trunk, as well as connections to dome lights, parking lights, head lights, horn, factory arm/disarm, and door locks. There is a side effect when wiring a Viper 500 system so it re-arms the factory alarm. When remote start disengages, the factory alarm may be re-armed. The factory SMART system is rearmed by tricking it into thinking someone used a key to lock the drivers door. This will cause all doors to lock. You may lock yourself out of the car if you leave your keys inside the car when remote start is active, you've closed the doors, and the remote starter shuts down. The brake switch is in this area, but it is hard to work with, even if you remove the connector and pull it down. Be careful of the airbag wires through this area as well. It is unfortunate that this area contains so many critical alarm connections, since it's very open. If you have the ability to fashion a grille for this area to make it hard to get to the wires, I would definitely do so! It should greatly increase your system security!

Passenger dash area: Glove box is a good place for switches/overrides, but it's also very common for alarm controls. Also consider that stuff bouncing around in there can hit your switches. The passenger kick panel supposedly has a neutral safety switch wire (Yellow), however, on my 2002, I wired directly after the key switch, and the downstream factory wiring provided the same functionality. You can reach parking lights here also. There is a nice big factory ground there as well.

Under hood: Other than a place to mount the siren, you normally only need power here. The passenger side relay box should have a couple open slots for relays/fuses that have a power terminal but no corresponding accessory terminal. A large insulated quick connect can attach to one of those, then a short length of wire to a fuse, which can also be placed in a spare relay slot, secured under the lid. Realize that this is easy to get to in an emergency, but not obvious if you loom/tape and run the wires nicely. It's should also be the factory preferred connection point (not directly to the battery, but very close and fused). You must fuse your main power cable in any installation as close to the power source as possible. The alarm's fuse protects the alarm only - not the power cable leading to it. Speaking of protection, if you don't like how easy it is to get to the power wire under the hood, there's not much you can do to hide it. The best bet would be a hood lock.

Wire Routing

Hey - here's the section our auto thieves will love!

• Ideally you could run from the hood to interior through the factory harness. But while it's got room for a few more wires, it's very well wrapped (because it's in a rain gutter on the outside), and it is easy to get to from inside. I really hate to cut another hole in that big grommet... but it's possible. I found a small 1/4 inch hole (has a rubber grommet installed from factory) on the passenger firewall between the wheel well and engine. It comes out under the passenger floor padding, and can be routed to the passenger kick panel or over to the center console. Be sure to protect the wire from chafing, and seal it since that area gets wet.
• If you have an automatic, there's a blank hole for the clutch you could use to run wires to the engine. Better waterproof it, cause it WILL get wet on the outside. It's also in plain view.
• Pillars are usually too small for anything other than an antenna or LED wiring.
• If you route wires along the door jams, try not to make any connections that are not waterproof. Eventually they will corrode away if they get wet. Don't pierce wires in this area for testing unless you seal them up - any water will seep through the pierce and corrode the wire. Use the plastic white factory wire cover to protect your wires.
• The radio can be unscrewed so you can pull it forward to route wires. You might not need to disconnect it, it comes out pretty far.
• Steering Column - Tape and protect wires by running them down the shift interlock cable on the right side. Wire tie them for security. I also placed the extra starter line relay in the steering housing, and used self-adhesive foam insulation strips to make sure the relay didn't rattle/vibrate.
• Under the vehicle - I would suggest staying away from this area, because it's very easy to get to, hard to hide your wires, and it's tough to protect wiring connections from water/mud/rocks.

Wiring Colors

Finishing Up

Take your time, and remember, it's going to stay in your car for a while. Might as well do it right!

If you park in your garage, a carbon monoxide sensor would be a very wise purchase!

If you want more information, try some of the links below as well. Online resources for wiring and other vehicle information include:

• www.the12volt.com
• www.carstereoproducts.com
• www.bulldogsecurity.com
• www.dei.com
• www.me-mag.com
• www.alldatadiy.com